A Beginner's Tour of PrusaSlicer
From Model to Printer
A slicer is the essential piece of software that bridges the gap between a 3D model and a 3D printer. It takes your model file (usually an STL or 3MF), applies all your chosen settings — layer height, speed, temperature, supports — and converts everything into G-code: a text file of instructions your printer actually understands. Without a slicer, a 3D printer is just an expensive paperweight. PrusaSlicer is one of the best free slicers available, and it's what we recommend for most beginners.
PrusaSlicer is maintained by Prusa Research, the Czech company behind the popular Prusa printer range. Critically, it works perfectly with non-Prusa printers — it has profiles for hundreds of printer models and supports custom configuration for anything not in the list. It's open source, actively developed, and has one of the best support generation systems of any slicer on the market.
Installation and First Setup
Download PrusaSlicer from prusa3d.com (it's completely free). On first launch, the Configuration Wizard walks you through selecting your printer model. If your printer is on the list, select it — the pre-built profile handles all the critical settings automatically. For printers not listed, choose "Custom FDM Printer" and manually enter your bed dimensions (X, Y, Z travel) and nozzle diameter. You can find these in your printer's specifications or manual.
Next, set up filament profiles. PrusaSlicer ships with generic profiles for PLA, PETG, ABS, and more. These are excellent starting points. When you open a new spool of OzFDM PLA, use the generic PLA profile and check the temperature against what's printed on your spool — typically 190–220°C for PLA. Our filaments come with recommended settings printed on the label.
The Main Interface
The PrusaSlicer interface has three modes: Simple, Advanced, and Expert. Start in Simple — it hides the vast majority of settings and presents only the essential controls. Import a model by dragging and dropping an STL file into the main window. The model appears on the virtual print bed. Right-click to access orientation tools, scaling, and cut features. The three main controls you'll use constantly: Layer Height (how thick each layer is — see our layer height guide), Infill (how solid the interior is — covered in our infill guide), and Supports (whether to generate support structures for overhangs).
When you're satisfied with the settings, click "Slice Now" at the bottom right. PrusaSlicer processes the model and shows you a preview of the print path. Use the layer preview slider to scroll through layers and see exactly what the printer will do at each height. This preview is invaluable for catching problems — over-enthusiastic supports, missed overhangs, or incorrect orientation — before you commit to a 4-hour print run.
Exporting and Printing
Once sliced, export the G-code to an SD card or USB drive (for SD-card printers), or send it directly over the network via OctoPrint, Klipper, or a Bambu Studio integration. The G-code file is a plain text file — you can actually open and read it if you're curious about what your printer is being instructed to do (see our G-code basics guide).
As you grow more experienced, switch to Advanced mode and explore the expanded settings. The "Supports" section alone has dozens of tunable parameters that dramatically affect support quality and removal ease. The "Printer" section lets you add custom start and end G-code. And when you're ready, compare PrusaSlicer's capabilities against the competition in our Cura vs PrusaSlicer article. Use quality Australian-sourced filament in your prints and you'll get consistent results every time.
Leave a comment
This site is protected by hCaptcha and the hCaptcha Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.