Choosing the right PLA filament
PLA is the material most makers learn on, and plenty never need to leave it. It prints at modest temperatures, resists warping, needs no enclosure and comes in more finishes than any other plastic we sell. The real question is which PLA suits the job: an everyday workhorse, a finish that looks complete straight off the plate, or a filled blend that changes stiffness, weight or feel. The tables below cover every product in this collection, with settings from each product's data.
Not sure where to start? Choose PLA+, a toughened PLA with lower brittleness and excellent layer adhesion that handles clips and brackets as well as display models. Our article on whether PLA+ is worth it explains the difference.
PLA types compared
Everyday and functional PLA
| Product | Best for | Nozzle | Speed |
| PLA+ | Strong everyday prints and functional parts | 190-220°C | 60-90mm/s |
| PLA Basic | General models, student projects and prototypes | 190-220°C | 40-250mm/s |
| Matte PLA | Low gloss finish that reduces visible layer lines | 190-230°C (220°C recommended) | 60-90mm/s |
| High Speed PLA | Fast printers and batch jobs | 190-220°C | 60-350mm/s |
| PLA-CF | Stiff brackets, housings and fixtures | 200-230°C (210°C recommended) | 40-60mm/s |
| PLA-LW | Lightweight drone, RC and cosplay parts | 190-270°C | 30-50mm/s |
| Flexible PLA | Parts that bend, such as phone cases and RC tyres | 180-220°C | 10-30mm/s |
Decorative and effect PLA
How each multi-colour effect behaves, and which models suit it, is covered on our multi-colour and rainbow PLA page.
PLA print settings, with the exceptions
Most of the range shares one baseline: a 190-220°C nozzle, a 25-60°C bed and 60-90mm/s. Start from a generic PLA profile, print a temperature tower and fine tune. These products need something different:
- Silk PLA, Silk Fusion and Tri-Colour Silk: hotter and slower, at 200-230°C and 40-60mm/s. Silk additives trade some layer strength for shine, so keep silk for display pieces. Silk PLA Rainbow is the exception, listing 190-220°C and 60-90mm/s. See our silk PLA printing guide.
- PLA-CF: carbon fibre is abrasive and wears brass, so fit a hardened steel nozzle. Begin at 210°C, a 50°C bed and 50mm/s.
- PLA Wood: wood fibres can build up in a fine nozzle, so avoid anything under 0.4mm and try a larger nozzle, such as 0.6mm, if you see partial clogs.
- High Speed PLA: rated to 350mm/s. Near the top of that range, lift the nozzle toward 220°C so the melt keeps up. More on high speed filament.
- PLA-LW: it expands as it extrudes, making parts up to half the weight of standard PLA. With an unusually wide 190-270°C range, print at 30-50mm/s and run a temperature test before a big job.
- Flexible PLA: slow to 10-30mm/s so the soft filament does not buckle. Our flexible filament guide compares it with TPU.
Quick PLA troubleshooting
- Stringing, rough walls or crackling at the nozzle: the roll has absorbed moisture. Dry it before touching slicer settings.
- First layer not sticking: clean the plate with isopropyl alcohol, recheck your Z offset and try the warmer end of the bed range.
- Clogs partway through a print: on an enclosed printer, open the door or lid. Trapped heat softens PLA in the cold end of the hotend, known as heat creep.
How much heat can PLA handle?
PLA+ and most of our speciality PLAs list a heat deflection temperature (HDT) of 53°C, and PLA-CF only lifts that to 60°C. A closed car, dashboard or tin shed in an Australian summer can exceed that, and PLA parts soften, warp or droop. Use this quick decision guide:
- Stay with PLA for display models, prototypes, household items, cosplay and anything that lives indoors.
- Step up to PETG for tougher functional parts that see some warmth. PETG+ lists an HDT of 68°C and PETG Basic 74°C, and both still print on an open-frame printer.
- Choose ASA for car accessories, garden fittings and mounts in direct sun. Its product data highlights UV and weather resistance with an 88°C HDT, but it needs an enclosure and good ventilation.
Drying and storing PLA
PLA slowly absorbs moisture from the air, and a roll left open through a humid coastal summer starts to string and lose surface quality. Keep opened rolls sealed with desiccant, ideally in a vacuum storage bag, and dry any roll that has been sitting out. Drying figures from our product data:
- PLA+, Matte, Silk family, Glow, Rainbow, Marble, Metal, Wood, Glitter, Chameleon, Colour Change and High Speed PLA: 40-45°C for 4-6 hours
- PLA Basic: 50°C for 5 hours
- PLA-LW: 55°C for 6 hours
- PLA-CF: 60°C for at least 5 hours
- Flexible PLA: 60°C for 6 hours or more
Stick to the listed figure, as extra heat can deform PLA on the spool. How to store filament in Australia's humidity covers the full routine.
Buying PLA filament from OzFDM
Mix PLA+ with Matte, Silk or any other 1kg roll and volume pricing kicks in: 5% off 3 or more rolls, 10% off 6 or more, 15% off 12 or more, and 20% off a full carton of 12 in the same colour and material. Your PLA ships free to any Australian address except PO Boxes once the order passes $299 after discounts, dispatched from Perth or Melbourne. Most PLA listings include a downloadable technical data sheet.
PLA filament FAQs
Is PLA+ worth it over PLA Basic?
For functional parts, usually yes. PLA+ is toughened for lower brittleness, so clips, hinges and brackets cope better with handling. PLA Basic is a dependable choice for models, prototypes and classroom work, and its data lists a wider 40-250mm/s speed range. Both share a 53°C heat deflection temperature, so neither is the answer for hot environments.
Can I leave PLA prints in the car or outside?
We would not. Most of our PLA lists a heat deflection temperature of 53°C, and a parked car in summer can pass that, so parts may warp or droop. Print anything that sits in the sun in ASA, or use PETG for warm spots out of direct sun, as it tolerates more heat than PLA.
Do I need a heated bed or an enclosure for PLA?
You do not need an enclosure, and PLA usually prints better with the door or lid open so the hotend stays cool. Our data lists a 25-60°C bed temperature, so a heated bed helps first layer grip, particularly on larger parts. Even so, a clean build plate and a correctly set first layer matter more than bed heat.
Which PLA hides layer lines best?
Matte PLA is the usual pick, because its low gloss surface reduces visible layer lines and gives models a finished look. Silk PLA works the other way, with a shine that visually softens lines. PLA Glitter and PLA-CF also help disguise layers through their sparkle or textured matte surface. For the smoothest result, combine any of them with a finer layer height.
Can I use PLA for cups, plates or food containers?
Printed parts are not recommended for food contact, whichever filament you use. The layer lines and tiny gaps in any FDM print trap bacteria that washing cannot reliably remove. PLA is still a great choice for kitchen organisers, drawer dividers, hooks and decorative pieces that never touch food.
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