Choosing the right ABS filament
ABS filament is the material makers reach for when a part has to cope with heat and knocks that would soften or crack PLA: electronics enclosures, brackets, car interior fittings, workshop jigs and working prototypes. Our range covers seven 1.75mm grades, from general purpose ABS Basic through to specialist glass fibre, flame retardant and anti-static formulations.
Every grade shares the same basic needs: a hot bed, still air around the part and good ventilation. Choosing between them comes down to the finish you want, how fast your printer runs and whether the part needs a special property.
ABS grades compared
| Product | Best for | Nozzle / bed | HDT |
| ABS Basic | Everyday functional parts and prototypes, matte finish, 16 colours | 220-240°C / 80-110°C | 88°C |
| ABS+ | Large or complex parts, lower shrinkage, satin finish that sands and paints, 18 colours | 220-240°C / 80-110°C | 85°C |
| ABS+ Sparkling | ABS+ toughness with a glitter finish, 5 colours | 220-240°C / 80-110°C | 85°C |
| ABS-HS | Fast printers and production runs | 220-240°C / 80-110°C | 88°C |
| ABS-GF | Stiff, dimensionally stable brackets and fixtures | 220-240°C / 100-110°C | See the product page |
| ABS-FR | Electrical housings that need a self-extinguishing material | 230-250°C / 100-120°C | 86°C |
| ABS-ESD | Jigs, trays and housings used around static sensitive electronics | 220-240°C / 100-120°C | 98°C |
Speed ratings differ more than temperatures. ABS Basic and ABS-HS list 40 to 300mm/s, ABS-FR 40 to 200mm/s, and ABS+, ABS+ Sparkling, ABS-GF and ABS-ESD 40 to 60mm/s. For drying, ABS-ESD calls for 70°C for at least 5 hours, while the other six grades take 80°C for at least 5 hours.
ABS print settings and warping fixes
Enclosure, draughts and ventilation
ABS shrinks as it cools. When one side of a part cools faster than the other, corners lift off the bed and tall walls split between layers. An enclosed printer such as a Bambu Lab P1S or X1 series, or a home-built enclosure, keeps the air around the part warm and still. Our guide to building a DIY printer enclosure covers the options.
ABS also gives off a strong smell and fumes while printing. Run the printer in a well ventilated room rather than a bedroom or living area, and use a filtered enclosure or vent the air outdoors where you can.
How to stop ABS warping
- Bed temperature: start at the recommended 100°C for ABS Basic, ABS+ and ABS-HS, or 110°C for ABS-ESD, and leave the bed heated until the print is finished.
- Brim: add a brim to parts with sharp corners or a large flat footprint so the edges have more grip.
- Chamber: let the enclosure warm up before a big print, keep the door closed and run the part cooling fan low.
- Orientation: print on the largest flat face, round sharp corners in CAD where the design allows, and avoid tall thin walls standing on their own.
- Location: keep the printer away from air conditioners, fans and open windows.
For a deeper troubleshooting checklist, read printing ABS without warping. For overhangs, HIPS is the matching support material for ABS and dissolves in d-limonene, available in our support filament range. Wear gloves and work somewhere ventilated when using d-limonene.
ABS vs ASA vs PETG
| Material | Choose it for | Keep in mind |
| ABS | Indoor parts that see heat and impact, HDT 85 to 88°C for ABS+ and ABS Basic | Needs an enclosure and ventilation, not the pick for long sun exposure |
| ASA | Outdoor parts that need UV and weather resistance, HDT 88°C | Prints like ABS but hotter, at 240-260°C |
| PETG | Easier printing on open printers, bed 50 to 80°C | Lower heat resistance, HDT 68°C for PETG+ and 74°C for PETG Basic |
Acetone smoothing and joining ABS
Traditional ABS softens in acetone, which is why makers use acetone vapour to melt away layer lines and liquid acetone to weld parts together. Our ABS+ and ABS+ Sparkling are different: they are formulated to be mostly resistant to acetone, so they cannot be vapour smoothed or acetone welded. The ABS+ product page lists the adhesive we recommend for joining those parts. If you plan to vapour smooth another grade, test it on an offcut before committing a finished part.
Acetone is highly flammable. Use it outdoors or in a well ventilated space away from heaters, flames and sparks, never heat it, keep the container sealed, and wear chemical resistant gloves and eye protection.
Buying ABS filament from OzFDM
Mix and match any 1kg rolls from this page with the rest of our filament range: 3+ rolls save 5%, 6+ save 10%, 12+ save 15%, and a full carton of 12 in the same colour and material saves 20%. Spend over $299 after discounts and shipping is free Australia-wide (PO Boxes excluded), with every ABS grade sent from our Perth and Melbourne warehouses. Five of the seven ABS product pages include a downloadable technical data sheet.
ABS filament FAQs
Do I need an enclosed printer to print ABS?
Small parts can succeed on an open printer in a warm, still room, but an enclosure makes ABS far more reliable. It holds the warm air that stops corners lifting and layers splitting, and it contains fumes so they can be filtered or vented. Our product data recommends printing ABS+, ABS-HS and ABS-FR in an enclosed space, and strongly recommends an enclosed printer for ABS-ESD.
What is the difference between ABS and ABS+?
ABS+ is a modified formulation with lower shrinkage, stronger layer bonding and better dimensional stability, so large parts are less likely to warp or crack. It has a satin finish that sands and paints well. ABS Basic has a matte finish, a higher speed rating of up to 300mm/s and an HDT of 88°C against 85°C for ABS+. Unlike standard ABS, ABS+ cannot be acetone smoothed.
Is ABS or ASA better for outdoor parts?
Choose ASA for anything that lives outside. It prints much like ABS but is formulated for UV and weather resistance, so it holds its colour and strength in the Australian sun. ABS suits indoor parts such as electronics enclosures, jigs and car interior pieces that stay out of direct sunlight. Both need a heated bed, an enclosure and good ventilation.
Is ABS-FR filament fire proof?
No. ABS-FR is formulated to resist ignition and to self-extinguish once exposed to flame, which makes it suited to electrical housings, automotive components and industrial prototypes. It is not fire proof, and a printed part is only as good as its design, wall thickness and print quality. If your application must meet a specific standard, test the finished part against that standard before you rely on it.
Can I use ABS in a Bambu Lab AMS?
It depends on the grade. Our data says ABS Basic performs well in an AMS, and ABS-HS feeds smoothly when configured correctly. ABS-GF and ABS-FR can be used if the spool fits, but manual loading is recommended. ABS-ESD may be used with a compatible AMS when the spool fits and the printer supports ABS conditions. In every case, keep the filament dry and print in an enclosed printer.
How do I stop ABS cracking between layers?
Layer splitting happens when upper layers cool and shrink while the lower part stays warm. Print in an enclosure, keep the part cooling fan low, and move the printer away from draughts. Dry the filament first, at 80°C for at least 5 hours for most grades or 70°C for ABS-ESD. ABS+ and ABS-HS are formulated to reduce warping and cracking, so they are good picks for tall parts.
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