
Printing ABS Without Warping
Danielle A.
Taming the Beast
ABS has earned its reputation as one of the more demanding materials in FDM printing. Unlike PLA or PETG, ABS shrinks noticeably as it cools from the printing temperature down to room temperature. On larger prints, especially long or flat parts, this shrinkage creates internal tension between the hot upper layers and the cooler lower layers already attached to the bed. The result is familiar to many makers: corners lifting, layers splitting apart, or entire prints warping beyond use. Successfully printing ABS is largely about controlling these thermal stresses and keeping temperatures stable throughout the print.
Before diving in, it is worth mentioning that for many outdoor applications, ASA is often the better choice in Australia. It offers very similar mechanical performance to ABS while adding proper UV resistance and slightly improved warp resistance. Have a look at our ASA vs ABS comparison before deciding which material best suits your project. That said, ABS remains the preferred option for applications requiring acetone smoothing, certain engineering specifications, or compatibility with existing designs and workflows.
The Enclosure: Essential for Reliable ABS Printing
An enclosure keeps the air around the print warm and stable, typically reaching ambient temperatures of around 40 to 55°C when paired with a 100 to 110°C heated bed. This warmer environment allows the ABS to cool gradually and evenly, dramatically reducing temperature differences between layers. Lower thermal stress means far less warping, stronger layer adhesion, and significantly more reliable prints overall.
Without an enclosure, even something as minor as airflow from a ceiling fan or open window can ruin a large ABS print. With a properly enclosed printer, the same model can print consistently even during a cold winter evening.
The excellent news is that building an enclosure does not need to be expensive. The well known IKEA Lack enclosure design remains popular for good reason, offering an effective DIY solution at a relatively low cost. See our DIY enclosure guide for a full breakdown of the build process and recommended materials. Commercial enclosed printers and upgrade kits are also widely available for those wanting a cleaner setup. If you intend to print ABS regularly, an enclosure quickly pays for itself through reduced failed prints and improved consistency.
Settings and Bed Adhesion
ABS generally prints best with a nozzle temperature between 235 and 255°C and a bed temperature around 100 to 110°C. Cooling fans should remain off wherever possible or be kept extremely low, as aggressive cooling increases the likelihood of warping and layer separation. Print speeds around 40 to 60 mm/s provide a good balance between quality and stability.
A brim around the base of the model is highly recommended, especially for larger parts. Adding an extra 5 to 10 mm of surface area helps anchor the print during the most stress prone early stages of printing.
For build surfaces, both smooth and textured PEI work well when paired with a light layer of glue stick. Some experienced users prefer ABS slurry, created by dissolving small pieces of ABS in acetone and applying a thin coating to the bed. This provides extremely strong adhesion but should only be used with proper ventilation. Dedicated adhesion products such as Magigoo ABS and Dimafix are also popular choices for demanding prints.
Print Room Management
The environment around the printer matters just as much as the printer itself. Keep doors and windows closed while printing ABS and avoid direct airflow from fans or air conditioning systems. Stable room temperatures make a noticeable difference.
Australian summer conditions can actually work in your favour, as the naturally warmer ambient temperature helps reduce thermal shock during printing. Winter conditions in southern parts of Australia can be much more challenging, even with an enclosure. In colder rooms, a small space heater nearby can help maintain a more stable environment, though it should never blow directly onto the printer or be left unattended.
Carefully monitor the first portion of the print, particularly the first 10 to 20 layers. If warping begins, it usually becomes visible early on. Catching the issue quickly and making adjustments will save both time and material compared to discovering a failed print hours later.


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