Written by Logan F.
Quick answer: Start with a printer that levels itself, a few rolls of PLA and an airtight place to store them. Download a model from MakerWorld, Printables or Thingiverse, slice it with your printer's free slicer, and print a few small test pieces before bigger projects. Learn PLA first, then move on to PETG.
If you've just bought your first 3D printer, or you're close to buying one, start here. This page covers how the process works, what to buy alongside your printer, which materials to learn first and the local conditions that catch out new Australian makers. Each section links to a more detailed guide when you're ready to go further.
How 3D printing works
A desktop FDM (fused deposition modelling) printer melts plastic filament and lays it down one thin layer at a time until the part is finished. Every print follows the same three steps.
1. Find or design a model
Models are 3D files, usually STL or 3MF. Free libraries such as MakerWorld, Printables and Thingiverse hold a huge range of ready-to-print designs, and our guide to finding and downloading free STL files explains how to pick good ones. When you want to design your own parts, our free CAD software guide compares the best starting points.
2. Slice the model
A slicer turns the model into G-code, the line-by-line instructions your printer follows. It is where you choose layer height, infill, supports and the filament profile. Most brands supply their own free slicer, such as Bambu Studio for Bambu Lab, PrusaSlicer for Prusa and Creality Print for Creality, and OrcaSlicer is a popular free alternative that supports many printers. Start with the default profile for your printer and material, and change one setting at a time. Our beginner's tour of PrusaSlicer explains the main settings, most of which work the same way in other slicers.
3. Print and watch the first layer
Send the job over Wi-Fi, USB or a memory card, then watch the first layer go down. Many failed prints start with a first layer that didn't stick properly, so stay nearby until it's done. Our guide to your first print and bed levelling shows what a good first layer looks like.
Beginner terms worth knowing
You'll see these words in every slicer and troubleshooting thread. Each one links to a guide that explains it properly.
- Layer height: how thick each layer is. Thinner layers look smoother but take longer. See understanding layer height and print speed.
- Infill: the internal pattern that fills a part. More infill adds strength and weight. See what is infill.
- Supports: temporary structures under overhangs that you remove after printing. See when to use supports.
- Retraction: pulling filament back slightly during travel moves to reduce stringing. See retraction settings.
- Build plate: the surface you print on, usually textured or smooth PEI on current printers. See bed surfaces compared.
Choosing your first printer
Printer recommendations change every few months, so we keep them in one place. Our 2026 buyer's guide to choosing your first 3D printer compares current models by budget, materials, multi-colour and build size. A few rules hold whatever brand you choose:
- Get automatic bed levelling. It removes the most common beginner frustration, and almost every current printer has it.
- Only pay for an enclosure if you need one. PLA and PETG print happily on open-frame printers; ASA, ABS and nylon need an enclosure.
- Buy from an Australian seller. Local warranty support and easy access to nozzles, build plates and other spare parts matter more than a small saving.
- Plan where it will live. Printers make noise and some materials give off fumes, so a ventilated room away from bedrooms is ideal.
Your first filament
Start with PLA. It prints at lower temperatures, barely warps, doesn't need an enclosure and forgives small calibration errors. Once your prints come out cleanly, move on to PETG for tougher, more heat-tolerant parts, and to ASA or ABS when you have an enclosed printer. Learning one material well is worth more than struggling with several at once.
| Material | Difficulty | Enclosure needed? | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | Easiest | No | Models, prototypes, decorations and indoor parts |
| PETG | Easy to moderate | No | Functional parts, containers and parts that see some heat |
| TPU | Moderate | No, but a direct drive extruder helps | Flexible parts such as bumpers, grips and seals |
| ASA | Moderate | Yes | Outdoor parts that face sun and weather |
| ABS | Moderate to hard | Yes | Heat-resistant indoor parts and parts you plan to sand |
For a detailed comparison, read PLA vs PETG vs ABS: Which Filament Should You Actually Use? If you're still unsure, our filament finder can help narrow it down.
What to buy alongside your printer
A printer gets you started, but a few extras make the first month much smoother. Our beginner's supply checklist for Australian makers covers everything in detail. The short version:
- Filament: two or three rolls of PLA in colours you'll actually use, plus a roll of PETG. Any mix of three or more filament rolls gets 5% off automatically at checkout.
- Storage: airtight containers or vacuum bags with desiccant.
- Tools: flush cutters, a scraper, a deburring tool and nozzle cleaning needles.
- Hardware: screws, nuts and heat-set inserts for functional parts. Our starter kits group common sizes into ready-made sets.
The Australian climate and your filament
Filament absorbs moisture from the air, and in humid coastal and northern parts of Australia a roll left open can start printing badly within days. Wet filament pops and hisses in the hotend and leaves rough surfaces, stringing and weak layers. Heat is the other problem: PLA softens at relatively low temperatures, so spools and prints left in a hot car, garage or shed over summer can deform.
The fix is a simple habit: keep filament sealed with desiccant whenever you're not printing, and dry any roll that starts to string or crackle. Our filament storage and drying guide covers dry boxes, vacuum bags and filament dryers.
Your first week of printing
Print small test pieces first
Before a big project, print a few small models that show how your printer handles overhangs, bridges and fine detail. Our list of the best beginner prints to test your new printer has ideas that are useful as well as diagnostic. Keep brief notes on the filament, settings and result of each test print, so when something goes wrong later you can see what changed.
Check the calibration
Most current printers calibrate themselves. If yours doesn't, or prints start to look off after a few weeks, work through our new printer calibration checklist.
Learn the common failures
Stringing, warping, poor bed adhesion and under-extrusion catch out every new maker. Our guides to common print failures and bed adhesion will help you fix most of them.
Print safely
Keep the printer on a stable, non-flammable surface, ventilate the room, and check on long prints until you trust the machine. Read our 3D printing safety guide before you move on to ABS or ASA.
Getting help
Australia's maker community is welcoming to beginners. When you ask for help, post clear photos of the problem and name your printer, filament and slicer settings. Our guide to Australian 3D printing communities covers where to ask, and maker spaces and FabLabs are a good way to meet other makers in person.
Shop the materials in this guide
- PLA Basic Filament 1.75 mm (1 kg): the easiest material to learn on.
- PLA+ Filament 1.75 mm (1 kg): a tougher PLA once you're printing functional parts.
- PETG Basic Filament 1.75 mm (1 kg): your next step for stronger, more heat-tolerant parts.
- Filament Storage Starter Kit: vacuum bags, a hand pump, desiccant and humidity cards.
- Nozzle Care Kit: cleaning needles and a brass brush for clearing partial clogs.
- Starter kits: fasteners and heat-set inserts for functional prints.
Frequently asked questions
What do I need to start 3D printing?
A printer, a few rolls of PLA, a free slicer, an airtight container for filament and a handful of basic tools such as flush cutters and a scraper. Everything else can wait until you know what you like to print.
What filament should a beginner use?
PLA. It is the most forgiving material, needs no enclosure and prints well on every consumer printer. Move on to PETG once your PLA prints are consistently clean.
Do I need to learn CAD before I start?
No. Free model libraries have plenty to print while you learn. When you want to design custom parts, free tools such as Tinkercad are an easy first step.
Why are my prints stringy or rough when they used to be fine?
The most likely cause is filament that has absorbed moisture. Dry the roll, store it sealed with desiccant, and see our storage guide for dryer options.
